The tension continues here in Honduras, but all is well in Copan. A mandatory curfew has been instated through tomorrow, from 9pm to 6am, but aside from that life continues pretty normally. I hear that there have been problems in Tegucigalpa, and for that, many in Copan are worried about their family and friends in the capital city. But Copan remains tranquil.
I thought I'd take a couple moments to write about the town in which I have been doing my research. Carrizalon is a small Ch'orti' (an indigenous Maya group) community in the mountains surrounding Copan valley. Taking the highway to the Guatemalan border, it is about a 30-minute drive by mototaxi (faster in Moncho's truck!). Half of the drive is on paved road, the rest consists of a dirt road ascending a rocky hill.
Life in Carrizalon is calm and simple. Most families live in plaster homes with metal or thatched roofing. They support themselves with milpas, or cornfields, where corn and beans are the staples. Roosters, hens, and chickens run around, and dogs and cats lounge around in the sun. The people have been incredibly kind and helpful, though at times shy. Very few, mostly the oldest members of the community, are native speakers of the Ch'orti' language, but the kids are now learning the language in school. Though some traditions are still practiced, more and more are being lost every day, and Catholicism is becoming more and more prominent. Hopefully my research will help to preserve some of these customs.
In any case, this is where I have been spending quite a bit of time over the last two weeks. Thought I'd give you a little window to it for now. I have taken a TON of pictures, and will share those with you when I return to the States.
Hope all is well!
Alyce
Monday, June 29, 2009
Sunday, June 28, 2009
The Coup
Hey everyone,
You may have heard the president of Honduras was arrested at his home this morning and sent into exile. The news has been calling it a 'coup' (or a 'golpe'). I just wanted to reassure everyone that things are fine here in Copan. There are some soldiers stationed in the park to deter any kind of protest or demonstrations, but aside from that things are going along as usual (aside from my trip to Carrizalon today, which has understandably been canceled) . I'm still on schedule for returning to the States on Friday, but I will keep you updated if anything happens.
I love you, miss you, and will see you all soon!
Alyce
You may have heard the president of Honduras was arrested at his home this morning and sent into exile. The news has been calling it a 'coup' (or a 'golpe'). I just wanted to reassure everyone that things are fine here in Copan. There are some soldiers stationed in the park to deter any kind of protest or demonstrations, but aside from that things are going along as usual (aside from my trip to Carrizalon today, which has understandably been canceled) . I'm still on schedule for returning to the States on Friday, but I will keep you updated if anything happens.
I love you, miss you, and will see you all soon!
Alyce
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Salutations
Hello again from Maya Connections! I am currently enjoying a relaxing Saturday after a long week of work: shopping, reading, taking pictures of town... I'll be going to the town's children's museum later this afternoon, so I'll be sure to update you on that in a bit.
For now: greetings in Copan. I suppose whenever one travels outside of his country of origin, he is bound to come across cultural norms different from his own. In Copan, while life is surprisingly similar in most respects, there are a few differences that have taken some getting used to. For example, in restaurants you seat yourself at a table. You also have to ask for the bill, or they won't bring it to you (they believe it's rude otherwise). The biggest difference, though, is the way people greet each other. If you pass someone on the street, even someone you don't know, it is expected that you say, 'Hello!' More acurately, 'Buenos dias!' or 'Hola!' or simply 'Buenas!' I like this custom quite a bit as it makes for a very friendly atmosphere in town.
As I alluded to in my last post, however, this custom also lends itself to the art of cat calling. Guys around town have no qualms about yelling things at you in the street. Though it can be uncomfortable at times, I actually find it pretty amusing. Some Copaneco men will shout things in English hoping you'll respond to that, and then giggle endlessly. Others stick to Spanish. 'Adonde vas, chica?' Even the tourists jump on the cat-calling bandwagon. I was walking in front of ViaVia last week and a couple of American-looking guys were sitting on the curb. As I walked by they shouted, 'Hola!' I just smiled in response and kept walking. They then whispered, 'She probably speaks Enlgish... Hello!' I kept walking. 'Good day?' they tried again, this time in an English accent. I smiled and kept walking. Finally, they shouted, 'Come baaaack!'
Ah, good times. Maybe I'll miss all that attention when I get back to the States.
Things are going well here otherwise. My research is beginning to wind down, and I'm beginning to work on my final report. I can't believe I have less than a week left! Time has gone by so quickly. I hope everything is splendid back home. Keep me updated!
Alyce
For now: greetings in Copan. I suppose whenever one travels outside of his country of origin, he is bound to come across cultural norms different from his own. In Copan, while life is surprisingly similar in most respects, there are a few differences that have taken some getting used to. For example, in restaurants you seat yourself at a table. You also have to ask for the bill, or they won't bring it to you (they believe it's rude otherwise). The biggest difference, though, is the way people greet each other. If you pass someone on the street, even someone you don't know, it is expected that you say, 'Hello!' More acurately, 'Buenos dias!' or 'Hola!' or simply 'Buenas!' I like this custom quite a bit as it makes for a very friendly atmosphere in town.
As I alluded to in my last post, however, this custom also lends itself to the art of cat calling. Guys around town have no qualms about yelling things at you in the street. Though it can be uncomfortable at times, I actually find it pretty amusing. Some Copaneco men will shout things in English hoping you'll respond to that, and then giggle endlessly. Others stick to Spanish. 'Adonde vas, chica?' Even the tourists jump on the cat-calling bandwagon. I was walking in front of ViaVia last week and a couple of American-looking guys were sitting on the curb. As I walked by they shouted, 'Hola!' I just smiled in response and kept walking. They then whispered, 'She probably speaks Enlgish... Hello!' I kept walking. 'Good day?' they tried again, this time in an English accent. I smiled and kept walking. Finally, they shouted, 'Come baaaack!'
Ah, good times. Maybe I'll miss all that attention when I get back to the States.
Things are going well here otherwise. My research is beginning to wind down, and I'm beginning to work on my final report. I can't believe I have less than a week left! Time has gone by so quickly. I hope everything is splendid back home. Keep me updated!
Alyce
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
A short note on reading...
A comment from my roommate on my last post prompted this one. She asked where I had been getting these books. Did I bring them with me?
This Is Your Brain on Music I brought with me. I had been meaning to read it for a while, so I thought I'd take it along in case I had any free time. Unfortunately, that it the only book I brought. I guess I didn't expect to have this much leisure time! In any case, Don Udo's has a shelf full of books that visitors have left over the years. Patrons are welcome to leave a book, and take one with them. As I don't have any books to leave behind, I've just been borrowing from the shelf and returning the books once I've finished.
The books I find intriguing are few and far between. The vast majority of books on the shelf are romance novels or war novels. This is actually pretty common of the book exchanges around town. A few different shops have their own book exchanges where you can pick up a new book and leave one behind for a small fee. There's actually a book exchange here at Maya Connections, complete with a sign that reads, "Please, no more romance novels!" I guess even Latin America can only take so much.
Anyway, just a short update for now. But in the next couple of days there will be more about cat calls, Carrizalon, the children's museum, and the horrors of shopping for souvenirs when you're a picky archaeologist. So stay tuned.
Alyce
This Is Your Brain on Music I brought with me. I had been meaning to read it for a while, so I thought I'd take it along in case I had any free time. Unfortunately, that it the only book I brought. I guess I didn't expect to have this much leisure time! In any case, Don Udo's has a shelf full of books that visitors have left over the years. Patrons are welcome to leave a book, and take one with them. As I don't have any books to leave behind, I've just been borrowing from the shelf and returning the books once I've finished.
The books I find intriguing are few and far between. The vast majority of books on the shelf are romance novels or war novels. This is actually pretty common of the book exchanges around town. A few different shops have their own book exchanges where you can pick up a new book and leave one behind for a small fee. There's actually a book exchange here at Maya Connections, complete with a sign that reads, "Please, no more romance novels!" I guess even Latin America can only take so much.
Anyway, just a short update for now. But in the next couple of days there will be more about cat calls, Carrizalon, the children's museum, and the horrors of shopping for souvenirs when you're a picky archaeologist. So stay tuned.
Alyce
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Tiempo Libre
Hello again from Maya Connections!
During the three weeks that I've been here, I have gotten to know the town really well in my free time. I've been to most of the restaurants, checked out the markets, perused the souvenir shops, wandered around the ruins, visited the museums, etc. Every once in a while, it's nice to simply relax in the hotel, catch up on e-mails, read, and the like. Well, when my computer broke down (just in time for the weekend!), I found myself with plenty of time to do just that (except for the whole catching-up-on-e-mails bit, but you get the point). So, here is a brief summary of what I've done to pass the time:
Alyce
During the three weeks that I've been here, I have gotten to know the town really well in my free time. I've been to most of the restaurants, checked out the markets, perused the souvenir shops, wandered around the ruins, visited the museums, etc. Every once in a while, it's nice to simply relax in the hotel, catch up on e-mails, read, and the like. Well, when my computer broke down (just in time for the weekend!), I found myself with plenty of time to do just that (except for the whole catching-up-on-e-mails bit, but you get the point). So, here is a brief summary of what I've done to pass the time:
- This Is Your Brain on Music: I really enjoyed this book. For anyone who likes music (which I'm pretty sure is everyone) and is interested in the way the brain works, you'll find this book intriguing. Dan Levitin, the author, is no Bill Bryson, but he has an approachable writing style and is clearly a genius. Worth the read.
- The Stranger: Very strange novel by Albert Camus. The plot? A weird dude basically condemns himself to death because he is so weird. To be fair, it's really about the absurdity of human existence (i.e. existentialism). But I also believe existentialism is itself absurd. Anyway, I do not approve.
- Murder on the Orient Express: I thoroughly enjoyed this. I'd seen it on our shelf at home for years and never picked it up, so I'm glad I finally had the chance to read it. Also, Agatha Christie married an archaeologist, so she is obviously awesome.
- Run, Fatboy, Run: Cute movie with Simon Pegg. They had a showing of it at ViaVia so I thought I'd check it out. I wasn't expecting it to be a romantic comedy, and I'm not the biggest fan of romantic comedies, so in that sense it wasn't all I'd hoped. But I'd say it's worth it for the humor, even if it is somewhat predictable.
- Across the Universe: Saw this at ViaVia last night. I love the Beatles, so I was pretty 'meh' about this movie. I liked listening to the Liverpuddlian accent, but didn't much enjoy hearing bastardized versions of Beatles songs for two and a half hours. Also, Janis Joplin didn't die in the end.
Alyce
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Sweet, sweet internet.
Hey folks! It's been a while since my last post, but for good reason(s) I assure you. This week, I finally kicked off my ethnographic work, which not only been keeping me busy but has also been incredibly interesting. The rains also decided to start up on Wednesday afternoon. This has been wonderful for the weather, but disastrous for my poor computer, which strongly disapproves of humidity. And who can blame it? It spends most of its time in dry-as-a-bone Colorado. In any case, since Friday night it has refused to turn on, so I am writing this from the Maya Connections internet cafe a couple blocks from the hotel.
As I said, I began my ethnographic research this week in the Ch'orti' community of Carrizalon. The people are wonderfully hospitable and very kind, and I've enjoyed getting to know more about how they live. The whole process of setting up this project has also been eye-opening. I knew there was a reason we've talked about politics in every single one of my archaeology classes. Now I'm witnessing that reason first-hand.
Life is pretty tranquil here. Aside from my work, I've been doing some shopping and a lot of reading. The weather is much cooler now that the rains have started, though the town's electricity is much more fragile.
Electricity provided, I will try to get to my e-mail once a day, so let me know how things are going! Happy Summer Solstice, and Happy Father's Day!
Alyce
As I said, I began my ethnographic research this week in the Ch'orti' community of Carrizalon. The people are wonderfully hospitable and very kind, and I've enjoyed getting to know more about how they live. The whole process of setting up this project has also been eye-opening. I knew there was a reason we've talked about politics in every single one of my archaeology classes. Now I'm witnessing that reason first-hand.
Life is pretty tranquil here. Aside from my work, I've been doing some shopping and a lot of reading. The weather is much cooler now that the rains have started, though the town's electricity is much more fragile.
Electricity provided, I will try to get to my e-mail once a day, so let me know how things are going! Happy Summer Solstice, and Happy Father's Day!
Alyce
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Jonesin'
I finally got my official IHAH ID card this week, which grants me free access to the archaeological park and the sculpture museum (and maybe even the town museum, I should check that out). So, for the first time since I've been back, I went to the sculpture museum and drew. If I could draw for the rest of my life, I would be one happy girl. Hopefully, I will get a chance to see the ruins sometime this week. I'll probably camp out and try to catch (a snapshot of) one of those elusive agoutis.
Anyway, on to the trivialities of my existence. I am missing out on a lot back in the states. Here is what I am jonesin' for:
Anyway, the stomach is rumbling. Off to dinner! Again, let me know what is going on back home. I miss you all, and hope everything is well.
Alyce
Anyway, on to the trivialities of my existence. I am missing out on a lot back in the states. Here is what I am jonesin' for:
- The Hangover. I want to see this movie so badly. SO BADLY. Mainly because I am in love with Zach Galifianakis... and his beard. Somebody promise to see this movie with me when I get back.
- Conan O'Brien on the Tonight Show. I did manage to see Jay Leno's last episode before I left, but missed out on Conan's premiere. I am excited to see for myself what he does with the show.
- Today's Big Thing. God, I miss dumb internet videos. The connection here is far too slow, so I hope someone is remembering all the good ones for me to check out in a couple of weeks.
- Thai food. Actually, make that Asian food in general.
- This American Life. Oh, Ira Glass, I miss that voice of yours.
- Sims 3. I hear babysitters can kidnap babies in this one.
- Flat surfaces. It's strange how much of an effort it is to walk around here. The cobblestone streets are very uneven and bumpy, the sidewalks are uncomfortably high of the ground, and the hills can be pretty steep. Remarkably, some of the local women can still walk around in stilettos. I miss my days of lazy, absent-minded walking.
- King cake. I have no idea why, but I am in the Mardi Gras mood.
- Illegal Pete's. I think I have actually abandoned the religion of Chipotle for Illegal Pete's. That's not to say I wouldn't thoroughly enjoy a Chipotle burrito right about now.
- FRAC cookies. So. Good. Kinda like Oreos.
- Florentina's. These are little pastry cookies with strawberry filling. I am bringing back a six-month supply of these babies.
- ViaVia's espagueti vegetariano. I've never really had anything like it. I don't even know where I could find something similar at home.
Anyway, the stomach is rumbling. Off to dinner! Again, let me know what is going on back home. I miss you all, and hope everything is well.
Alyce
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Shopping in Copan Ruinas
My dear and wonderful roommate Elizabeth is currently spending her summer in the land of her people, Poland. She is one of the few genuinely-selfless people I know, evidenced by the fact that she decided to spend her time in Poland working at a children's hospice. Every week or so, she'll send out an e-mail updating everyone on how things are going. From her last update:
The little town of Copan Ruinas couldn't be more different. No building here serves only one purpose. The distribuidoras and pulperias, found on every street corner, sell everthing from dog food, hair dye, and cookies to toilet cleaners, canned vegetables, and phone cards. It can sometimes make for easy, one-stop shopping, but the random clutter of items can make it difficult to know if this particular store has what you're looking for. Even the restaurants around here also serve as hotels, lounges, and travel agencies. Maya Connections, about a block or so east of Don Udo's, acts as a souvenir shop, internet cafe, and laundry service. Every store has got it all!
Now, if only I could find some cold medicine to help me feel better!
Update on the loud Americans: As expected, having the loud Americans in the hotel has been a comical experience. They are quite the boisterous pair, and spend a lot of time hanging around the bar. They've even taught some of the Don Udo's staff how to make different drinks. My favorite conversation of theirs in the last hour was with Isabel. One of them pulled out a CD and asked, "Have you heard this soundtrack?" My ears perked up. "Lady GaGa?" she responded. Oh, no he didn't! I love Lady GaGa!
I don't know if I should be impressed or creeped out by how much Mr. Loud American knew about Lady GaGa. "She's been at the top of the charts for THIRTY-TWO WEEKS!" I didn't even know that! But, through all of this, what I am most impressed by is how well these loud Americans have been able to transcend the language barrier and develop amicable relationships with the staff. I am beginning to think that no one hates loud Americans abroad more than quiet Americans abroad. I think we quiet Americans tend to jump to the conclusion that loud Americans are poorly representing our country, but maybe that presupposition needs to be revised. More often than not, the loud Americans are the ones who are confident enough to interact with and learn from the locals without being embarrassed by not fitting in to a tee.
Anyway, I'm thoroughly enjoying listening to Lady GaGa. This is way better than hearing "I Want It That Way" twice an hour.
Alyce
Which brings me to my point about shopping in Poland—it’s comfortable and quaint, because everything is sold in little shops or open-air kiosks according to what it is—we have shoe stops and notebook shops, we have the butcher, the baker, the vegetable guy, and the fruit lady, not to mention the key guy and the watch master. There are some supermarkets... but on the whole people still use these small shops or stands.So, if you know what store would sell what you're looking for, piece of cake! But, if you have no idea which store sells your desired item (in Elizabeth's case, a wine bottle opener) then you're out of luck (thank goodness she finally found one in the kitchen utensils store).
The little town of Copan Ruinas couldn't be more different. No building here serves only one purpose. The distribuidoras and pulperias, found on every street corner, sell everthing from dog food, hair dye, and cookies to toilet cleaners, canned vegetables, and phone cards. It can sometimes make for easy, one-stop shopping, but the random clutter of items can make it difficult to know if this particular store has what you're looking for. Even the restaurants around here also serve as hotels, lounges, and travel agencies. Maya Connections, about a block or so east of Don Udo's, acts as a souvenir shop, internet cafe, and laundry service. Every store has got it all!
Now, if only I could find some cold medicine to help me feel better!
Update on the loud Americans: As expected, having the loud Americans in the hotel has been a comical experience. They are quite the boisterous pair, and spend a lot of time hanging around the bar. They've even taught some of the Don Udo's staff how to make different drinks. My favorite conversation of theirs in the last hour was with Isabel. One of them pulled out a CD and asked, "Have you heard this soundtrack?" My ears perked up. "Lady GaGa?" she responded. Oh, no he didn't! I love Lady GaGa!
I don't know if I should be impressed or creeped out by how much Mr. Loud American knew about Lady GaGa. "She's been at the top of the charts for THIRTY-TWO WEEKS!" I didn't even know that! But, through all of this, what I am most impressed by is how well these loud Americans have been able to transcend the language barrier and develop amicable relationships with the staff. I am beginning to think that no one hates loud Americans abroad more than quiet Americans abroad. I think we quiet Americans tend to jump to the conclusion that loud Americans are poorly representing our country, but maybe that presupposition needs to be revised. More often than not, the loud Americans are the ones who are confident enough to interact with and learn from the locals without being embarrassed by not fitting in to a tee.
Anyway, I'm thoroughly enjoying listening to Lady GaGa. This is way better than hearing "I Want It That Way" twice an hour.
Alyce
Friday, June 12, 2009
THE LOUD AMERICANS HAVE ARRIVED!
One of the interesting parts about staying in a hotel for an extended period of time is that you get to see a lot of patrons come and go. And the people-watching has been fun. I've come to recognize all different types of tourists!
Today, the loud Americans arrived.
Don Udo's is a fantastic hotel and restaurant run by a Dutch ex-pat, and is relatively expensive compared to other hotels in the town. Many of the people coming through, thus, look pretty well-off, or at least accustomed to living in luxury (e.g. having hot water for showers, AC in your bedroom, etc.). I figure that's what drew them here in the first place. Well, it was obvious the loud American tourists had expected luxury, and luxury they were going to get! In English, of course.
I was awoken from my nap (trying to fight off a nasty cold) only about an hour ago by their arrival. The loudest of them proclaimed, "THIS IS DON UDO'S! WHERE IS UDO? HAH! HAH!" This was repeated several times until, I assume, Udo came out to greet them. There was relative silence until poor Isabel showed them to their room. The slightly-less-loud man took one look (as I envisioned it in my head) and yelled, "THERE'S NO SPACE! I NEED SPACE! I DON'T WANT THIS ROOM, SHOW ME ANOTHER!" Mind you, Isabel does not speak English. The slightly-less-loud American thought this could be remedied by saying the same thing louder and slower. When she showed him another room, he was still unsatisfied. "WHERE IS THE LIGHT? I NEED LIGHT! I WANT SUN!" It saddens me that neither one of them thought to bring a Spanish dictionary to a Spanish-speaking country. Poor Isabel finally understood what they were trying to say when one of them went into the courtyard and pointed up. "SUN!" She showed them around for a good 15 minutes before they settled on a room. "EXALANTE!" "GRASSY-ASS!" Oh, embarrassing.
They seemed to be genuinely grateful for her patience, however, and Isabel even taught them a couple phrases in Spanish. Hopefully, they'll take note. I think the next few days with them around will be pretty comical, so I'm looking forward to that, at least.
I'm actually surprised it took this long before some loud American tourists showed up. I've seen the families with young children who run around like they own the place. I've seen the college boys who stay up late smoking cigars in the lounge because they can. I've seen the young backpacking couples who aren't indie enough to stay in a hostel. Finally, the loud Americans! Still waiting for the Japanese family adorned with fanny packs and visors, though I'll let you know if they make an appearance.
Hope everyone is doing well! As I mentioned, I have a bit of a cold, so I am doing my best to rest up and get over that. Figures that the first time I've been sick in years would be in Copan!
Let me know how things are going!
Alyce
Today, the loud Americans arrived.
Don Udo's is a fantastic hotel and restaurant run by a Dutch ex-pat, and is relatively expensive compared to other hotels in the town. Many of the people coming through, thus, look pretty well-off, or at least accustomed to living in luxury (e.g. having hot water for showers, AC in your bedroom, etc.). I figure that's what drew them here in the first place. Well, it was obvious the loud American tourists had expected luxury, and luxury they were going to get! In English, of course.
I was awoken from my nap (trying to fight off a nasty cold) only about an hour ago by their arrival. The loudest of them proclaimed, "THIS IS DON UDO'S! WHERE IS UDO? HAH! HAH!" This was repeated several times until, I assume, Udo came out to greet them. There was relative silence until poor Isabel showed them to their room. The slightly-less-loud man took one look (as I envisioned it in my head) and yelled, "THERE'S NO SPACE! I NEED SPACE! I DON'T WANT THIS ROOM, SHOW ME ANOTHER!" Mind you, Isabel does not speak English. The slightly-less-loud American thought this could be remedied by saying the same thing louder and slower. When she showed him another room, he was still unsatisfied. "WHERE IS THE LIGHT? I NEED LIGHT! I WANT SUN!" It saddens me that neither one of them thought to bring a Spanish dictionary to a Spanish-speaking country. Poor Isabel finally understood what they were trying to say when one of them went into the courtyard and pointed up. "SUN!" She showed them around for a good 15 minutes before they settled on a room. "EXALANTE!" "GRASSY-ASS!" Oh, embarrassing.
They seemed to be genuinely grateful for her patience, however, and Isabel even taught them a couple phrases in Spanish. Hopefully, they'll take note. I think the next few days with them around will be pretty comical, so I'm looking forward to that, at least.
I'm actually surprised it took this long before some loud American tourists showed up. I've seen the families with young children who run around like they own the place. I've seen the college boys who stay up late smoking cigars in the lounge because they can. I've seen the young backpacking couples who aren't indie enough to stay in a hostel. Finally, the loud Americans! Still waiting for the Japanese family adorned with fanny packs and visors, though I'll let you know if they make an appearance.
Hope everyone is doing well! As I mentioned, I have a bit of a cold, so I am doing my best to rest up and get over that. Figures that the first time I've been sick in years would be in Copan!
Let me know how things are going!
Alyce
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
FOOD
So, there I was, lying on my bed, thinking about food (as I often do) when it came to me: I've had some pretty interesting food experiences so far... why not share them with my devoted readers (hi, Mom and Dad!)?
Last year, the vast majority of our meals were planned. We enjoyed dinner at Don Udo's every weekday, breakfast every day. Lunches on weekdays were spent at the Hotel Posada by the site (while we were excavating). Most meals, we were at the mercy of whatever they decided to serve us. By no means was this a problem: I never had to think too much about what I was hungry for, and, for indecisive people like myself, that is a huge plus. Plus, I liked pretty much every dish they served, so my stomach was happy.
This year, needless to say, is different. Breakfasts are included at Don Udo's, so I eat here for breakfast everyday. But for lunch and dinner, I actually have to think about what I want. To make this process easier, I've tried to get to most of the more prominent restaurants around town and familiarize myself with their menus. This past week, I've ventured into a lot of different places (most familiar, a few not). Most of the restaurants here serve the same kind of food: platos tipicos (typical Honduran plates, usually with eggs, beans, rice, tortillas, salsa, etc.), pastas, hamburgers, soups, other meat dishes, etc. As Copan is a tourist destination, it's not surprising that many of these places are trying to cater to an international audience with international cuisine. In any case, my synopsis.
ViaVia: Pretty sure I've mentioned this restaurant before. As I've said, it's owned by some Belgian ex-pats. I recently learned it's part of a chain of restaurants found all over the world (Europe, Africa, etc.), with its Copan location the first in the Americas. They also screen movies up on their patio (I saw Dark Knight there last year), and big sporting events down in the lounge. Everything I've had at ViaVia is delicious, including vegetarian spaghetti (topped with carrots, green beans, and other vegetables) and a veggie burger. One nice thing about ViaVia is that all dishes can be made vegetarian. Yay! There food is definitely more on the exotic end.
Llama del Bosque (Call of the Wild): The food here is generally cheap and also very good. Best plato tipico in town, in my opinion. Also, it's right across the street from ViaVia, so if I have no idea what I want, I'll usually just head down that street.
Cafe Welchez: If I have a sweet tooth, this is where I go. They have all varieties of cakes (including tres leches), flan, etc. They also made the best watermelon smoothie I've had here. Welchez is definitely more well-known for its coffee, but since I don't partake I can't comment on that.
Jim's Pizza: Really good pizza, but you can't buy by the slice, otherwise I'd go more often (sorry, I just can't eat a whole pizza by myself). Another ex-pat owner. This time, American. Jim has a very heavy southern accent, which makes all experiences there amusing.
Vamos a Ver: This is the only restaurant where I had a marginal experience. I had the pasta while I was there, which was pretty good, but much more expensive than at other places. The watermelon smoothie was also the worst I've had. And my experience is made by the watermelon smoothies. Though they also served a lot of traditional European (I can't remember if it was Belgian or Dutch...) dishes, so I might have to give it another try.
Elisa's Restaurant: Right across the street from the town park. Similar food choices to everywhere else: pasta, soup, sandwiches, meat dishes. A homeless man walked in and demanded food while I was there. The food wasn't bad, but I'll probably avoid going there again.
Xibalba: Xibalba is definitely better known as a bar, but I stopped in for lunch and it was surprisingly good ("spaguetti con marinera"). It used to be owned by a British ex-pat, Tanya, who runs Twisted Tanya's (a popular bar and restaurant) about a block away, but apparently they sold it due to rent increases.
Mary's Pupuseria: Only about a block away from Don Udo's. If you are in the mood for pupusas or other local dishes, this is a great place. Cheap, and delicious! Also, they soak their vegetables in beet juice. Why? No idea.
Wow, this was a beastly and incredibly boring entry. If you made it this far, good for you! I don't know what that says about you, but good for you. So there you go, food in Copan. If I make it to any other restaurants, I'll spare you the details. But I hope you enjoyed getting to know a little bit more about the options here.
So I've blabbed. Feel free to blab to me about your summers so far! I'd love to hear from you.
Alyce
Last year, the vast majority of our meals were planned. We enjoyed dinner at Don Udo's every weekday, breakfast every day. Lunches on weekdays were spent at the Hotel Posada by the site (while we were excavating). Most meals, we were at the mercy of whatever they decided to serve us. By no means was this a problem: I never had to think too much about what I was hungry for, and, for indecisive people like myself, that is a huge plus. Plus, I liked pretty much every dish they served, so my stomach was happy.
This year, needless to say, is different. Breakfasts are included at Don Udo's, so I eat here for breakfast everyday. But for lunch and dinner, I actually have to think about what I want. To make this process easier, I've tried to get to most of the more prominent restaurants around town and familiarize myself with their menus. This past week, I've ventured into a lot of different places (most familiar, a few not). Most of the restaurants here serve the same kind of food: platos tipicos (typical Honduran plates, usually with eggs, beans, rice, tortillas, salsa, etc.), pastas, hamburgers, soups, other meat dishes, etc. As Copan is a tourist destination, it's not surprising that many of these places are trying to cater to an international audience with international cuisine. In any case, my synopsis.
ViaVia: Pretty sure I've mentioned this restaurant before. As I've said, it's owned by some Belgian ex-pats. I recently learned it's part of a chain of restaurants found all over the world (Europe, Africa, etc.), with its Copan location the first in the Americas. They also screen movies up on their patio (I saw Dark Knight there last year), and big sporting events down in the lounge. Everything I've had at ViaVia is delicious, including vegetarian spaghetti (topped with carrots, green beans, and other vegetables) and a veggie burger. One nice thing about ViaVia is that all dishes can be made vegetarian. Yay! There food is definitely more on the exotic end.
Llama del Bosque (Call of the Wild): The food here is generally cheap and also very good. Best plato tipico in town, in my opinion. Also, it's right across the street from ViaVia, so if I have no idea what I want, I'll usually just head down that street.
Cafe Welchez: If I have a sweet tooth, this is where I go. They have all varieties of cakes (including tres leches), flan, etc. They also made the best watermelon smoothie I've had here. Welchez is definitely more well-known for its coffee, but since I don't partake I can't comment on that.
Jim's Pizza: Really good pizza, but you can't buy by the slice, otherwise I'd go more often (sorry, I just can't eat a whole pizza by myself). Another ex-pat owner. This time, American. Jim has a very heavy southern accent, which makes all experiences there amusing.
Vamos a Ver: This is the only restaurant where I had a marginal experience. I had the pasta while I was there, which was pretty good, but much more expensive than at other places. The watermelon smoothie was also the worst I've had. And my experience is made by the watermelon smoothies. Though they also served a lot of traditional European (I can't remember if it was Belgian or Dutch...) dishes, so I might have to give it another try.
Elisa's Restaurant: Right across the street from the town park. Similar food choices to everywhere else: pasta, soup, sandwiches, meat dishes. A homeless man walked in and demanded food while I was there. The food wasn't bad, but I'll probably avoid going there again.
Xibalba: Xibalba is definitely better known as a bar, but I stopped in for lunch and it was surprisingly good ("spaguetti con marinera"). It used to be owned by a British ex-pat, Tanya, who runs Twisted Tanya's (a popular bar and restaurant) about a block away, but apparently they sold it due to rent increases.
Mary's Pupuseria: Only about a block away from Don Udo's. If you are in the mood for pupusas or other local dishes, this is a great place. Cheap, and delicious! Also, they soak their vegetables in beet juice. Why? No idea.
Wow, this was a beastly and incredibly boring entry. If you made it this far, good for you! I don't know what that says about you, but good for you. So there you go, food in Copan. If I make it to any other restaurants, I'll spare you the details. But I hope you enjoyed getting to know a little bit more about the options here.
So I've blabbed. Feel free to blab to me about your summers so far! I'd love to hear from you.
Alyce
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Placido Domingo...
...por lo menos en Copan!
Sorry for the title. Couldn't resist myself! In any case, it was a very peaceful Sunday in Copan. I didn't go out too much because the heat was stifling, but I caught up on some reading and took some (accidental) naps. It looked like it was going to rain later in the afternoon, and I think the skies finally opened up for at most 30 seconds. Last year, we were practically inundated with rain; showers would start at about 2 pm every day and go through the evening. This year's rainy season apparently started a couple weeks earlier than normal, in early May. But by mid-May the rains had subsided, and now we are currently in a bit of a dry spell that has left everyone a tad confused. Weird weather? I blame global warming!
But the most exciting news of the day came from my hometown of Aurora, CO where a small tornado blew through earlier today. Why do I always miss the exciting stuff? Everyone is fine, thank goodness. The Southlands Mall near my house was hit pretty hard, and I saw some of the eerie aerial photos of the damage on 9news' website. Mom, Dad, and Christine were eating in a restaurant at the mall when the tornado hit, and apparently Mom drove the car home "like an ambulance." And, of course, it's Colorado so the tornado was accompanied by golfball-sized hail.
The moral of this story? Facebook's news feed is good for something! If I hadn't seen the upteen messages about/photos of the tornado posted to the home page within the span of about 2 minutes, I never would have known about it. Facebook, to the rescue!
Also, that makes two natural disasters that I missed by the narrow margin of a few days. I should buy a Powerball ticket!
Have a great night. Keep me updated!
Alyce
Sorry for the title. Couldn't resist myself! In any case, it was a very peaceful Sunday in Copan. I didn't go out too much because the heat was stifling, but I caught up on some reading and took some (accidental) naps. It looked like it was going to rain later in the afternoon, and I think the skies finally opened up for at most 30 seconds. Last year, we were practically inundated with rain; showers would start at about 2 pm every day and go through the evening. This year's rainy season apparently started a couple weeks earlier than normal, in early May. But by mid-May the rains had subsided, and now we are currently in a bit of a dry spell that has left everyone a tad confused. Weird weather? I blame global warming!
But the most exciting news of the day came from my hometown of Aurora, CO where a small tornado blew through earlier today. Why do I always miss the exciting stuff? Everyone is fine, thank goodness. The Southlands Mall near my house was hit pretty hard, and I saw some of the eerie aerial photos of the damage on 9news' website. Mom, Dad, and Christine were eating in a restaurant at the mall when the tornado hit, and apparently Mom drove the car home "like an ambulance." And, of course, it's Colorado so the tornado was accompanied by golfball-sized hail.
The moral of this story? Facebook's news feed is good for something! If I hadn't seen the upteen messages about/photos of the tornado posted to the home page within the span of about 2 minutes, I never would have known about it. Facebook, to the rescue!
Also, that makes two natural disasters that I missed by the narrow margin of a few days. I should buy a Powerball ticket!
Have a great night. Keep me updated!
Alyce
Week 1: Recap Continued
[Note: This was meant to be posted last night, but the internet was out with the town's electricity until this morning.]
I just walked back from ViaVia (great restaurant/bar, Belgian owners) by moonlight. The town lost power about 30 minutes or so after the soccer game ended, but the electricity is still (miraculously) working in Don Udo's. USA won 2-1 against Honduras! No screaming in the streets tonight, but USA plays Honduras again in San Pedro next week, so we'll see if the tides change or not. Anyway, let's continue.
WEDNESDAY: In the evening, I had dinner with some of the archaeologists/art historians/etc. currently working in the Copan area. It's really great meeting and making connections with these people, who are all brilliant and yet incredibly down-to-earth. In a way, it's like a sneak preview of what the future holds. Some of the people I've met are grad students, others already have their PhDs, some have edited books, given presentations at conferences, etc. These are all endeavors I see myself pursuing, so I am enjoying getting personal perspectives on what each stage of that life will be like. In this way, it's somewhat nice not to be surrounded by fellow undergrads simply because I am more inclined to branch out and meet all of the other interesting people working here. At the same time, though, I miss having some buddies to play sardines with in the ruins.
THURSDAY: I started my research routine on Thursday. CONIMCHH in the morning, CRIA in the afternoon. The rest of the day was pretty relaxed. I've started reading This Is Your Brain on Music by Daniel J. Levitin, which I've been meaning to read for the longest time. After the first couple of chapters, I can't say it's too mind-blowing. But, to be fair, these chapters have dealt with a lot of rudimentary music theory with which I'm already familiar. It does seem to have a lot of promise, though, so I'll give you a better review once I've finished.
FRIDAY: My first Ch'orti' lesson was Friday an CONIMCHH. So fun! Later that night, I was jonesin' for something sweet, so I went to Cafe Welchez and brought back some flan de coco (coconut flan). It was the first time since I've been back that I was out near el parque after sunset. I had forgotten how vibrant the town is at night, with lots of music and people enjoying one another's company. It really is a great place to be. Oh, and the flan hit the spot!
TODAY (SATURDAY): Today was a nice, relaxing day. Explored the town a bit, did some reading. I also enjoyed some of my favorite Copan meals: I had a licuado de sandía (watermelon smoothie) with lunch, and the espagueti vegetariano at ViaVia. My fellow field school alums will be pleased to hear that the marimba version of "I Did It My Way" is wafting in from the Udo's restaurant as I write this. It's been a very Copan day, indeed!
Hope everything is going well! Keep in touch.
Imb'utz akb'ar! (Good night!)
Alyce
I just walked back from ViaVia (great restaurant/bar, Belgian owners) by moonlight. The town lost power about 30 minutes or so after the soccer game ended, but the electricity is still (miraculously) working in Don Udo's. USA won 2-1 against Honduras! No screaming in the streets tonight, but USA plays Honduras again in San Pedro next week, so we'll see if the tides change or not. Anyway, let's continue.
WEDNESDAY: In the evening, I had dinner with some of the archaeologists/art historians/etc. currently working in the Copan area. It's really great meeting and making connections with these people, who are all brilliant and yet incredibly down-to-earth. In a way, it's like a sneak preview of what the future holds. Some of the people I've met are grad students, others already have their PhDs, some have edited books, given presentations at conferences, etc. These are all endeavors I see myself pursuing, so I am enjoying getting personal perspectives on what each stage of that life will be like. In this way, it's somewhat nice not to be surrounded by fellow undergrads simply because I am more inclined to branch out and meet all of the other interesting people working here. At the same time, though, I miss having some buddies to play sardines with in the ruins.
THURSDAY: I started my research routine on Thursday. CONIMCHH in the morning, CRIA in the afternoon. The rest of the day was pretty relaxed. I've started reading This Is Your Brain on Music by Daniel J. Levitin, which I've been meaning to read for the longest time. After the first couple of chapters, I can't say it's too mind-blowing. But, to be fair, these chapters have dealt with a lot of rudimentary music theory with which I'm already familiar. It does seem to have a lot of promise, though, so I'll give you a better review once I've finished.
FRIDAY: My first Ch'orti' lesson was Friday an CONIMCHH. So fun! Later that night, I was jonesin' for something sweet, so I went to Cafe Welchez and brought back some flan de coco (coconut flan). It was the first time since I've been back that I was out near el parque after sunset. I had forgotten how vibrant the town is at night, with lots of music and people enjoying one another's company. It really is a great place to be. Oh, and the flan hit the spot!
TODAY (SATURDAY): Today was a nice, relaxing day. Explored the town a bit, did some reading. I also enjoyed some of my favorite Copan meals: I had a licuado de sandía (watermelon smoothie) with lunch, and the espagueti vegetariano at ViaVia. My fellow field school alums will be pleased to hear that the marimba version of "I Did It My Way" is wafting in from the Udo's restaurant as I write this. It's been a very Copan day, indeed!
Hope everything is going well! Keep in touch.
Imb'utz akb'ar! (Good night!)
Alyce
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Week 1: Recap
So much has happened this week, but I will try to keep it down to the most interesting parts. It's for your own good.
MONDAY: I flew into San Pedro Sula through Atlanta, which is actually a beautiful airport. And huge! It has five concourses, and, unlike at DIA, you can walk between all five if you so choose. Only about a mile between the terminal and Concourse E! I took the train. My flight from Atlanta actually had to make an emergency landing in New Orleans due to a sick passenger, so I got into SAP about an hour-and-a-half later than expected. Still, my very patient driver David was right in front of Wendy's waiting for me, and after a nice drive we arrived in Copan Ruinas at about 4:30pm.
TUESDAY: I spent most of Tuesday making arrangements for my research with the help of Serafin (one of the dibujantes at the CRIA, and a member of the Ch'orti' community in Azacualpa in Ocotepeque) and CONIMCHH (Consejo Nacional Indigena Maya Ch'orti' de Honduras). The talk of the day was the possibility that Hillary Clinton, who was in Honduras for the OEA conference, would be coming to see the ruins. A loud helicopter buzzed over town later that afternoon (there's apparently a landing pad by the sculpture museum), but the dignitaries on board did not include our Secretary of State. At least that's what I heard.
I'm going to stop there for now. The big soccer game between the USA and Honduras is on, and I'm going to go check it out! Would it be treacherous to root for Honduras?
Let me know what's going on!
Alyce
MONDAY: I flew into San Pedro Sula through Atlanta, which is actually a beautiful airport. And huge! It has five concourses, and, unlike at DIA, you can walk between all five if you so choose. Only about a mile between the terminal and Concourse E! I took the train. My flight from Atlanta actually had to make an emergency landing in New Orleans due to a sick passenger, so I got into SAP about an hour-and-a-half later than expected. Still, my very patient driver David was right in front of Wendy's waiting for me, and after a nice drive we arrived in Copan Ruinas at about 4:30pm.
TUESDAY: I spent most of Tuesday making arrangements for my research with the help of Serafin (one of the dibujantes at the CRIA, and a member of the Ch'orti' community in Azacualpa in Ocotepeque) and CONIMCHH (Consejo Nacional Indigena Maya Ch'orti' de Honduras). The talk of the day was the possibility that Hillary Clinton, who was in Honduras for the OEA conference, would be coming to see the ruins. A loud helicopter buzzed over town later that afternoon (there's apparently a landing pad by the sculpture museum), but the dignitaries on board did not include our Secretary of State. At least that's what I heard.
I'm going to stop there for now. The big soccer game between the USA and Honduras is on, and I'm going to go check it out! Would it be treacherous to root for Honduras?
Let me know what's going on!
Alyce
Friday, June 5, 2009
Alyce in Copan: Part Deux
Nearly a year after I first arrived, I have returned to the beautiful town of Copan Ruinas in western Honduras. I actually got into town on Monday afternoon (after seventeen hours of travel, no less), but decided that I needed time to decompress and solidify my schedule before getting back to the blog.
So, what am I doing here? Well, at school, seniors have the option of writing a thesis, which is essentially an epic research paper (ca. 70 pages) about a topic within their field of study. I am interested in the ancient Maya conception of body, maize traditions and practices, and ancient gender distinctions. I am especially interested in the intersection of these three topics, which I will be researching while I am here. I will be taking lessons in Ch'orti' (the Maya language spoken by indigenous populations around Copan and in eastern Guatemala), reading in the CRIA library, and meeting with members of the Ch'orti' community to learn more about their lifestyle. All of this research will go toward my thesis when I return to Cambridge in the fall. I am hoping this blog will focus more on my own personal experiences in Copan rather than my academic research, but I am happy to elaborate more on that. Just ask!
It felt surreal walking into the entrance of Don Udo's on Monday afternoon. I had spent a whole semester making plans for this trip (and amending those plans once obstacles arose), applying for funding, getting my vaccinations and medications in order, arranging hotels and rides--I had worked so hard to get here that once I was finally here I couldn't believe it. It's definitely nice to be back, though I know this year's experience will be completely different from last year's.
I'll elaborate more on that in my next post (maybe later tonight!), in hopes of keeping these things somewhat short. This year, I won't be posting any pictures to the blog (uploading just takes too long with this internet connection) but I will get them online as soon as I get back. I will try to post as frequently as I can, so I hope you'll join me throughout the summer.
I hope all is well back in the States (and abroad, my traveling amigos)! I love you and miss you,
Alyce
So, what am I doing here? Well, at school, seniors have the option of writing a thesis, which is essentially an epic research paper (ca. 70 pages) about a topic within their field of study. I am interested in the ancient Maya conception of body, maize traditions and practices, and ancient gender distinctions. I am especially interested in the intersection of these three topics, which I will be researching while I am here. I will be taking lessons in Ch'orti' (the Maya language spoken by indigenous populations around Copan and in eastern Guatemala), reading in the CRIA library, and meeting with members of the Ch'orti' community to learn more about their lifestyle. All of this research will go toward my thesis when I return to Cambridge in the fall. I am hoping this blog will focus more on my own personal experiences in Copan rather than my academic research, but I am happy to elaborate more on that. Just ask!
It felt surreal walking into the entrance of Don Udo's on Monday afternoon. I had spent a whole semester making plans for this trip (and amending those plans once obstacles arose), applying for funding, getting my vaccinations and medications in order, arranging hotels and rides--I had worked so hard to get here that once I was finally here I couldn't believe it. It's definitely nice to be back, though I know this year's experience will be completely different from last year's.
I'll elaborate more on that in my next post (maybe later tonight!), in hopes of keeping these things somewhat short. This year, I won't be posting any pictures to the blog (uploading just takes too long with this internet connection) but I will get them online as soon as I get back. I will try to post as frequently as I can, so I hope you'll join me throughout the summer.
I hope all is well back in the States (and abroad, my traveling amigos)! I love you and miss you,
Alyce
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